Such is the Power of Sides

10 pm in Madrid. It’s a searing hot July day even at this time, when constellations of crowds disperse into smaller clusters, trickling into restaurants for food and respite. From inside this Galician restaurant, the noise swells from a gentle clicking of cutlery to an ambient buzz. Royal blue-studded ceramic plates play off against the teak wood of the table and chairs, and exposed bulb pendants bask the brick walls in a spectral glow.

When I don't know what to say, I cook

"How about your lasagna?” asked my boyfriend, on one of those anonymous nights in quarantine that blend into so many. We’d fallen into the inevitable quagmire of what to have for dinner, something that throughout the pandemic became the north star of our day, the current that kept us moving. “That is, if it’s not too much trouble. I’m happy to help”, he added. I nodded. It would never be too much trouble really, but I felt more eager to make it detecting the gentle plea in his voice. I knew it was his favourite dish of mine. Not because it was anything particularly ground-breaking but for the opposite; because it represented something comforting, something familiar. While the act of making lasagna—dutifully chopping up the veg, simmering the ragu, whipping the bechamel into excruciating smoothness and carefully layering the golden cuts of pasta one by one—might seem like a labour of love for him, in hindsight I can see it’s always been more gratifying for me.

Everything you need to know about sake

Japan’s reputation for food and drink has global appeal and its national drink sake is starting to make waves abroad too. A rice-based alcohol that has been held in almost mythic regard, it’s often surrounded by ceremony when served and yet can be completely unceremonious at other times. For the Japanophiles, the drinkers and the curious, we asked sake seller Sayaka Hashida of sakenomism to demystify this alcoholic beverage. The basic profile of sake by SSI (The Sake Service Institute) Intern

The rise to power of rosé wine

Rosé wine is one of the oldest drinks in the world, a complex wine steeped in history and technique. But rosé has historically changed in some parts of the world, which in the past have relegated it to the realm of alcohol for the non-serious drinkers. However, the onset of changing tastes and technology in the 21st century has led to a renewed interest and re-evaluation of our understanding of rosé, so much that it’s become the drink of choice for many.

Breaking bread: the story of the baguette

The baguette is one of the world’s most celebrated breads and one of France’s most symbolic foods. But what of its ambiguous origins? And where in the world can you be guaranteed to get an excellent loaf? Continuing our series on global bread culture, we’ve looked into this legendary bake and the story of a nation that fell in love with it. Historical accounts of where the baguette comes from vary. However, it’s widely believed that it first appeared after the French Revolution, when a shortage

How French cookbooks changed the way we eat

French cuisine is considered by many (including the French) to be the mother of cuisines and French chefs have represented the very best of the gastronomic profession throughout history. But the bountiful and regionally diverse cuisine we know today—from the rustic, lightness of Provençal dishes to the haute cuisine of Paris—has undergone a number of drastic transformations. With the help of our books expert, Kurt Salchli, we used a few iconic cookbooks to track French cuisine’s steady evolution

Breaking bread: a history of Montréal’s bagels

The Montréal-style bagel (or simply the Montréal bagel) is distinct among the extensive bagel family. Unlike its infamous New York-style cousin, the Montréal variant is an entirely different but equally delicious eat. But where did it come from and where can you go for the very best bagel? We’ve looked into this iconic baked treat and its history, and have gone in search of Montréal’s winning combinations. The bagel has become synonymous with Montréal, but its rise to iconic status is a hazy ta

A food lover's guide to northern France

Perhaps no country has a history quite so steeped in gastronomic tradition as France does. Knowing where to go and where each dish originates, is crucial to successful feasting in this culinary realm – which is why we’re put together a list of the regions and their signature foods, starting in northern France. France’s most northwesterly region is the land of the crêpe. This paper-thin, delicate batter is adored all over the world, and there’s no better place to try it than at a crêperie in Bri

Around the UK in pies

Any British person will remind you there’s nothing quite as warming as a hot, thickly-crusted pie on a cold winter’s day. A word of much contention in the British isles, the UK is a proudly pro-pie nation, where they range from full-encased pastry numbers to baked variations with only a pastry base or lid. Whatever your stance is, the UK proves there’s nothing the humble pie can’t do – and we’ve picked the essentials to try. The perennial favourite among meat pie lovers, the squat, round pork pie

5 of England’s most glorious pub lunches

Pubs are an essential part of England and the UK’s cultural fabric. Other than simply being snug drinking dens, they’re known for plating up lunches that’ll stop you in your tracks. From towering Yorkshire puddings and roasts with every trimming imaginable, we’ve scoured England for some of the establishments that take pub lunches to a higher, more delicious ground. Steeped in a more treacherous history than your average pub, The Spaniard’s Inn is a London institution – and that’s before even l

Britain's best bakeries

Warm loaves, showstopping cakes and the flakiest pastries out there, Britain’s baking culture needs little introduction. For your next bread run, don’t miss out on this symphony of crackle – this is our edit of the best bakeries in Britain. The Little Bread Pedlar in London Open to the public only one day a week, The Little Bread Pedlar remains one of London's bakeries to visit. Tucked deep within industrially chic Bermondsey, beyond the main thoroughfares of Bermondsey Street and Maltby Stree

A food lover's guide to southern France

From the humble ratatouille to the queen of comfort food, cassoulet – this guide takes you through some of southern France’s most celebrated and essential dishes. Bourgogne-Franche-Comté is home to one of France’s most celebrated dishes, the grande dame of stews, bœuf à la bourguignonne. While you’ll find this dish on most bistrots’ menus, the dish takes its name from the wine of Burgundy. A recipe designed for a cold winter’s day, this combination of beef, bacon, onions, mushrooms, garlic and

Where to go for Brazilian-Japanese fusion food

Brazil is home to the largest Japanese diaspora in the world. These Japanese emigrants and their descendants are known as the Nikkei, and arrived during the early 20th century, at a time when Brazil was actively seeking labourers. Today, there’s a flourishing Japanese community that has held onto its heritage through its food, shaping a new genre of fusion that combines the best of Brazilian and Japanese flavours. São Paulo, in particular, is a hub for this inventive cuisine.

Around Italy in pasta

A national favourite and staple food, pasta is one of Italy’s great loves. With innumerable variations and age-old approaches to making it, eating pasta in Italy is a delicious but daunting task. While it’s unlikely you’ll be able to try every pasta dish in one trip (and you know you’ll be tempted to), we’ve put together a few of the essential eats and where to try them. Up in the north of Italy is Piedmont, home to tajarin al burro e salvia, a dish that succeeds in its sheer simplicity. Tajari

Japan's best cities for sushi

Nigiri, maki, temaki, uramaki and sashimi – the sushi options in Japan are simply endless. For those on a quest for the very best sushi out there, these are the cities to head to. Tokyo has a reputation for a world-class gastronomy and there are some serious sushi eats to be found here. Sushi shops range from high-end to budget, but always with a finesse that makes eating in Tokyo a peerless experience. While the former Tsukiji market was often where visitors gravitated to in the city, it’s the
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